Brazilian food is more than just Feijoada or a Churrasco. As Brazil is a huge country, there are lots of regional cuisines that often go unnoticed by foreigners and are well worth exploring. Below I’ll give you some tips on where and what to eat to get a better grasp of the São Paulo food scene and understand where to eat good Brazilian Food in São Paulo.
Before you eat: what to expect
A few things foreigners don’t know walking in. First, tipping: it’s not mandatory, but most bills will include a 10% service charge. You can refuse it — locals do it all the time — but in practice, most people just pay it. Second, English menus: don’t count on them outside of very upscale places. Google Translate’s camera mode will be your best friend. Third, prices: São Paulo food can be shockingly cheap or surprisingly expensive depending on where you sit. I’ll give you USD and EUR estimates throughout so you know what you’re getting into.
Price guide: $ = under 10 USD per person / $$ = 10–25 USD / $$$ = 25+ USD
CTN $
In my opinion, it’s mandatory to visit CTN (Center of Northeastern Traditions) if you want to properly understand Brazil. São Paulo saw a huge wave of migrants arriving from the arid Northeast between the 1950s and 1980s, and the flow continues today. These people helped shape not only the city’s landscape but many of its cultural aspects — food being one of them. Here you’ll find a plethora of restaurants to choose from, all serving similar food.
I recommend ordering a Baião de Dois, a typically northeastern Brazilian dish with rice, beans, dried meat, pork cuts, cheese and a touch of pepper. One plate usually serves 2 to 3 people and is a revelation for your palate. The price per person can get ridiculously cheap if you’re splitting the bill — I paid around 9 USD / 8 EUR per person on my last visit.
If you plan ahead, CTN also hosts live music shows and can get PACKED at night, with crowds of up to 15,000 people. There are also some stores if you want to shop for good local produce.
CTN is accessible via Line Red – 3, Palmeiras-Barra Funda station, plus a short Uber ride.
Conceição $$
Conceição is a great spot in the bohemian Santa Cecília neighborhood where you can eat and drink well while listening to good music. Run entirely by women, its specialty is rice — if I were you, I’d go for the duck rice: super rich, with tender meat and layers of flavor. You also get to watch the cook working right in front of you. Their dessert is also superb, and they’re very selective about quality, so expect a great finish to your meal.
The place can get crowded since it’s small, so expect some waiting time during weekend lunches. As far as I know, there’s no reservation system. The price can be a bit higher if you go for a full course — I paid around 18 USD / 16 EUR on my last visit for a main dish, a drink, and dessert.
The restaurant’s full name is Conceição Discos & Comes. Comes means bites, and Discos means records. If you’re a vinyl lover, you might also want to browse their collection for some neat Brazilian music to take home.
Conceição is very close to the Line Red – 3 Santa Cecília station. Be aware that although the neighborhood is full of bars and lively streets, wandering away from the crowds can lead you to very sketchy areas even in daylight.
Degas and Hospedaria $$
You might think I’m crazy for putting not one but two Italian restaurants in the Brazilian food section. However, they both serve something I don’t really classify as Italian — a Parmegiana steak: a juicy steak (chicken or beef) with a crispy crust, tomato sauce and melted cheese on top. Think schnitzel is good? You’ll rethink everything after your first proper Parmegiana. As far as I know, São Paulo is the best place in Brazil for this dish. Prices range from 9 to 18 USD / 8 to 16 EUR depending on the restaurant.
I picked two specialists: Degas, which I’ve visited and didn’t love, but apparently has a cult following for their Parmegiana. They have several locations and the Pompéia one is the best — I visited the Pinheiros branch and found it a bit run-down. Degas is a bit far from the metro, so drop off at Line Red – 3 Palmeiras-Barra Funda or Line 7 – Ruby Água Branca and grab an Uber.
Hospedaria has my top Parmegiana. It comes with an inexplicable crunch and some very simple pasta underneath. I’m salivating just writing this. Hospedaria is close to the Line Turquoise – 11 Juventus-Mooca station — the same neighborhood as Juventus stadium if you want to combine both in one evening. It’s surrounded by other great restaurants, so if you change your mind, there are plenty of alternatives right next door.
Calçadão de Ouro $
Some might say that a Brazilian isn’t truly Brazilian without a favorite boteco. You may have heard synonyms like botequim, birosca, or barzinho — they all refer to the same thing: a no-frills, popular restaurant that feeds workers at lunch and bohemians at night, sometimes both at once. You’ll find some upscale takes on the concept, but they rarely carry the true spirit of a boteco.
My go-to boteco, near where I worked for a while, is Calçadão de Ouro — or Golden Walkway, which is an epic name. They’ve gone through a big renovation and may look fancy now, but the waitstaff, cooks, and menu are all the same. I highly recommend the Parmegiana for 2 (notice a pattern?), which costs around 16 USD / 14 EUR and could feed a small army. Don’t expect gourmet food — just a generous chicken Parmegiana loaded with tomato sauce and cheese, served with rice and fries, and a healthy dose of local atmosphere. You can also grab a standard grilled chicken meal for a staggering 5 USD / 4 EUR.
Since Calçadão is located on Paulista avenue, very close to the Line Green – 2 Brigadeiro station, it’s a great option if you’re exploring the area and want a cheap, filling meal.
Embaixada Mineira $
Brazil is a vast country with many regional cuisines, but if there’s one that everyone turns to for comfort food, it’s Minas Gerais — rustic, produce-driven, and widely regarded as among the best in the country alongside Amazonian cuisine. There are plenty of gourmetized Mineiro restaurants out there that lose that rustic charm. Want the real thing? Come to the Embassy.
Embaixada Mineira is right near Paulista avenue and gets packed during the weekday lunch rush. The menu is extensive, but any choice will serve you well. My suggestion: come on a Wednesday and order the feijoada. You’ve probably looked it up already — here you can have a solid, affordable version.
I eat here regularly and often order the minced meat with potato plate, which costs as little as 5 USD / 4.50 EUR, comes with a mountain of food, and includes two pastéis. An absolute bargain. Happy hour prices are also decent. It’s right next to Brigadeiro station and Calçadão de Ouro, so it’s hard to miss.
A Casa do Porco $$$
The Pig’s House is located in a very central part of São Paulo and is a globally recognized restaurant, regularly appearing in rankings of the best restaurants in Latin America. It’s also listed in the Michelin Guide as Bib Gourmand — though I’d argue it’s a bit pricey for that label.
As the name suggests, it serves pork — many cuts, prepared in many different ways. When I went, I had a tasting menu where pork was interpreted through the lens of different global cuisines. Yes, I had pork sushi, and it was fantastic. You can also order more traditional pork dishes, but don’t expect to leave without spending at least 40 USD / 35 EUR before drinks.
The restaurant is located close to the Line Red – 3 and Yellow – 4 República station. Be mindful of the surroundings at night — but also consider grabbing an ice cream at Sorveteria do Centro and rounding out your night at Tokyo, a fun bar and karaoke spot nearby.
Barbacoa $$$
While debate rages on in the Brazilian barbecue world, Barbacoa is hands down the best rodízio experience you can find in São Paulo. A rodízio is an all-you-can-eat barbecue format where servers circulate with different cuts of beef, pork, chicken, and some more adventurous options. There’s also an extensive buffet with salads, seafood, fruits, and sides — all included in a single price.
If you eat meat, you must visit a good rodízio at least once. Come hungry, stay long, and make the owner regret the concept. They also have off-menu items — like meat with caviar — if you know to ask. I didn’t know this on my last visit, and at 50 USD / 45 EUR per person without drinks, I haven’t made it back yet.
I recommend booking in advance, as queues can stretch to two hours or more. Check their website before going. Barbacoa has three locations, but the Itaim one is the most traditional. There’s no nearby metro station, so Uber or the many buses along Nove de Julho avenue are your best options.
Hungry for more? Check out our guides to parks for a post-lunch stroll, or sports events if you want to make a full day of it.